Lens, dome etc cleaning and polishing

[chief1562]

Did you read any of the other posts in here?

Or just make the post.

We've said it a few times here about using them

Ok to prep clean before wet sanding but should not be used alone because it does not get all the sun damage off.

And does not take the scratches out like a good wet sanding.

 

[shipdog]

Any suggestions on the best way to polish clear, plastic domes to remove yellowish haze?

Thanks

 

[Carlos SpicyWeiner]

I use the flitz lightbar restoration kits to get it done. Easy peezing and looks great. 

 

[Phoenix_Rising]

http://elightbars.org/forums/topic/93-lens-dome-etc-cleaning-and-polishing/#entry314

 

[CodeMan]

I was told you can use pledge furiture polish between car washes in a pinch.. I however  use the Maguire's cleaner wax does a pretty good job on the FS Legend bottom domes. Have not done the insides though... 

 

[JazzDad]

I use a little PlastX.  If you have a couple of more minutes to spare, do the insides, too.

 

[Carlos SpicyWeiner]

I use flitz. Can also be used for chrome, stainless steel, etc.  Great stuff.  It's what we also use for restoring lightbars. 

 

[MtnMan]

Second for PlastX.

Pledge just leaves a superficial coat of silicone. I wouldn't bother with it.

 

[chief1562]

I use Novus

 

[Carlos SpicyWeiner]

I heard good things about novus but never used it once going to flitz.  Tried plastx first then liked mothers plastic polish better  and finally settled on the flitz.  Bought like 50 of the lightbar rest kits when i found out they discontinued them lol. The polish in the kits is the same outside of the kit and is the most important part though. 

 

[Hoff]

Do you use the paste nic?

 

[Carlos SpicyWeiner]

http://www.amazon.com/Flitz-HR-31501-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B002FYJWPI/ref=sr_1_23?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1413247473&sr=1-23&keywords=flitz+polish

The tubes come in everything

 

[Crownfire]

I've been using the Meguiars headlight restoration kit with very good results. http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product/heavy-duty-headlight-restoration-kit

My only issue is that the velcro-backed sanding discs wear out, and I haven't been able to find any replacements.  So I go buy another kit, but I really don't need anymore Plast-x or microfiber towels. 

Has anyone found a source for the 1500 and 3000 grit sanding discs with velcro on the back? 

 

[Jarred J.]

i watched a vid on "the tube" about just regular old toothpaste. tried it and it actually worked

 

[Sparky_911]

Ive tried several methods over last year or so...here's my thoughts..

First thing I do is wash the lens with Dawn and water using a Scotch(?) no scratch sponge.  (They are usually 2 tone blue, not the yellow and green ones).  It gets any residue or other gunk/bugs off.

3M kit...I use a spray bottle w/tap water to keep things lubed.  For heavy yellow/brown lenses I usually do a run with 500 until the debris slurry turns white then use 800, then switch to the Trizact pad, then the foam pad with toothpaste or Plastix from there.  It gets out a lot of surface scratches and it seems to work better on colored lenses from my experience.  It takes more elbow grease on clear lenses but they will shine up.

Toothpaste...I apply with a white terry shop towel or 3M foam pad if I'm doing an entire bar at once..  Use paste only like car wax but remove with water. great for light haze and very minor yellowing, best use as a polishing compound for a final shine. I use Aquafresh Whitening (org/whi/slv tube). It has baking soda in that seems to work like the diatomaceous earth in other rubbing compounds. 

Plastix...I use it as a final shine.  Apply using the foam pad from the 3M kit and wipe off with towel.  Works faster (read: less work) than toothpaste and makes a lens look like glass, Then I follow it up with the Meguiars Headlight wax stuff in the black bottle (I think it might be just carnauba wax...not sure though).  Ive only had it on a few months but it seems to be holding up under normal warm weather conditions....

On average I can polish up a vector dome from brown/cloudy back to 80% in about 15 minutes using a drill.

My next project is to try rattle can clear coat to see how long it lasts.    

 

[chief1562]

Well that should make the manufactures cringe a bit.

Almost as made when I was in the Navy and had mess duty on board ship. Use bug juice aka Kool-Aid to clean the brass dishwasher. Makes you wonder what it was doing to your innards. :no:

 

[JazzDad]

I imagine that this would be a very temporary fix, and might actually harm the plastic if used repeatedly.

http://www.wimp.com/sockspray/

 

[Sparky_911]

I've been using the Meguiars headlight restoration kit with very good results. http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product/heavy-duty-headlight-restoration-kit

My only issue is that the velcro-backed sanding discs wear out, and I haven't been able to find any replacements.  So I go buy another kit, but I really don't need anymore Plast-x or microfiber towels. 

Has anyone found a source for the 1500 and 3000 grit sanding discs with velcro on the back? 

Auto parts places from what ive found (NAPA in my area has em in stock). But they be PRICEY!!   I discovered in my last lens cleanup that (and I hate admitting this) Wally world carries the 1000 2000 3000 sheet packs.  I cut out circles from the sheets then took the drill bit/Velcro hook thing from the 3M kit and put a loop of black Gorilla tape on the face (duct tape works too).  Works pretty well and you get more discs for the money.

 

[Mattdecker]

Took some ideas from here. Worked on all my bar lenses. Only picture I have is of the center section of my Vista.








Took a spray bottle filled with warm water and a few drops of dish liquid and sprayed the lense and also the sandpaper.


Then started out with 1000 grit sandpaper going along the lens horizontal for 2-3 minutes.


Then sprayed the lens again and sprayed a piece of 2000 grit sandpaper and done that vertically for the same amount of time.


Also occasionally pausing to wet down lens and sandpaper as needed.


After finishing with 2000 grit I took a wet rag to wipe the lens down, then dried it off and wiped some Turtle Wax lens clarifying compound on it.


Then took a damp rag and wipe the excess compound off and dried again with a microfiber cloth.


Didn't take it back to new but cleared it up a lot.


Did this to my MX and cleared them up too. Haven't tried on my Edge or my Dual-Comm bar yet.

 

[Rene Foppes]

I have been using a liquid polishing paste for more than 15 years now and that stuff hasn't failed me yet. Known as "Commandant4" it is meant to restore the shine on carpaint, scraping off the micromilimeter of dull toplayer, just like wetsanding. I've had great results with very bad lenses and I have used many cans throughout the years.


It's a Dutch product, not available in physical stores elsewhere but it can be found on the UK website of Amazon and through German and Belgian websites.
CLICK HERE for Amazon UK

It is like liquid sandpaper, mushed together into a can.
Applying it with a light damp cloth, making circles and applying pressure while doing so, you can hear it working on the plastic. When it gets less liquid and harder to rub it in, leave it to dry for a couple minutes then buff it out thorouhly. I usually apply one layer of regular carwax to seal the plastic and protect the shine.

For facebook users, here's a link to my photoalbum with polishing pics
https://www.facebook.com/dallascaprice/media_set?set=a.473899096038674.1073741831.100002557633554&type=1


Small example of why I love to work with this stuff so much, just had one go at the MX dome on the right, it was as bad as the one on the left.

 

[AJ3814]

I'm very new here and honestly haven't read through every post in this thread..... but willl say with certainty, I have used toothpaste with 100% success on every lexan/plastic lens I have ever owned. Type of cloth (in my experience) has never made any difference: Apply a "semi-generous" (don't worry.... you can't use "too much") amount to a piece of cloth wrapped over 2 fingers (like polishing shoes); Apply to the lens as if you are polishing shoes and work in like car wax; Don't be afraid to work in well; It doesn't need to "sit" long, but letting it sit all day will not hurt one bit (I've done it); Wash off with dish soap and water....... BRAND NEW LENSES.    My personal choice is Colgate Optic White in the red tube.... NOT because it works better, but because it takes less work. I'm not 18 anymore. I like easy.

 

[Rene Foppes]

After having seen numerous video's on Youtube and this topics on ELB, I tried the wetsanding technique for the very first time, using 1000, 1500 and 2000 gritt, thereafter I used my Commandant4 to polish/buff to an endresult (as I do not have any Plast-X or alike yet). I'm still not really content with the results.
Included just a couple of pictures of the entire polishing trial here, the full proces is on my lightbarmuseum facebookpage , check the link here below.

Should I be using even finer gritt than 2000? Or did not sand it long enough? Did everything by hand this run. I've ordered some McGuiars and Mothers items through Amazon which will hopefully be here within 2 weeks or so. I was hoping on a better result but it seems the finishing trick lies in the buffing afterwards, highspeed with a good material, right?

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.387367621471674.1073741838.169905279884577&type=1

 

[rwo978]

I go all the way up to 5000. Some go higher, but I'm happy with the results I've gotten with this; any more return for the labor involved would be minimal. I finish with Novus #2.

Before



After

 

[Mars Light]

I use 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grit sandpaper. After this I polish with 3M auto polish and for the finish I take Xerapol (not really cheap).

The last step is plexus spray for the shinny finish.

 

[motorolamaniac]

So I have been wet sanding the clear coat on my F100 truck project with a 3M professional polishing kit and decided to try it on a well worn Code 3 XL Dome. 

The kit is the 3M Perfect- it series and uses a compound and two polishes with appropriate buffing pads on a Dewalt buffer. You simply need to start with 1500 grit and then 2000 Wet or Dry 3M paper. The results on a heavily weathered Dome were impressive. Took about 20 minutes to do 1/2 the Dome, a fraction of the time my old technique took.

 

[ex416]

that looks awesome Jeff.  what do you think of the result compared to the old technique?

 

[motorolamaniac]

Seems on par. I think if I added one more finer grit it would be like almost factory new. This requires a $400+ investment in the 3M kit and the Buffer.

 

[tsquale]

Tried the toothpaste method on some plastic PAR lenses. Not impressed. Just made the dog want to lick them...

 

[AJ3814]

Yea..... I learned something about the toothpaste.... it works great as long as the lenses are still smooth, but for any nicks, scratches, or bad weathering, the 3M kit rules. ...... But I did use toothpaste and a blue 2 sided 3M dish sponge with great success on some stuff. 3M still rules the roost.

 

[CodeMan]

Oddly enough, I tried the 2000 grit wet and was left with a cloudy clear lens. maybe I missed a step? I'll try the toothpaste next... (dull clear Legend lower lens.

 

[toon80]

Oddly enough, I tried the 2000 grit wet and was left with a cloudy clear lens. maybe I missed a step? I'll try the toothpaste next... (dull clear Legend lower lens.

Did you try previous stages of grits or went straight with 2000?

You have to start, depending on the initial condition with 400-600 grit (severe scratches and coudyness) to 1000 grit (moderate/regular cloudyness and scratches) and then move to finer grits progressively.
Say you start with 600, when the lens is evenly snaded with this grit, you switch to 800 and "erase" the 600 grit marks. Then you move to 1000 and "erase" the 800 grit marks.
The grit marks will progressively become finer and finer. At 2000, it is supposed to be noticeably light. With plast-x and powerball, you should have good results from there. If you want better results, get some 4000 Trizact pads on a hand drill.

That's an example of how I work.

If I understood correctly, and in case you used only the 2000 pads, it will not do a good job save a little improvement.

Hope this helps.

 

[chief1562]

Just finished a few domes for a collector down state pic heavy first a set of FS model red 14's, Then a pair of Twinsonics, then a blue mx that somebody used clear coat spray on. I use a 10 step hand wet sanding and the polish

 

[CodeMan]

Ha-ha, I'm jealous of others outcomes.. I went out and got the 1000, 1500 & 2000 grit. wet sanding used a little dawn in the water for about 5 mins each just doing the front.
(mind you the lenses where just starting to get cloudy) result: still cloudy. Soo I tried some toothpaste, rolls eyes, I think I made it worse... I panicked a little but found Maguire's wax and it will hide my cloudiness till I remedy my labor.

 

[toon80]

CodeMan, did you completely remove each stage of grit marks before going to the next one?
When buffing with soap and water, which is a good move, did you rinse your equipment frequently?

 

[CodeMan]

Yes, I did.. I used the fine grit as the hazing was just starting.. Lucky for me the Maguire's cleaner wax still works to hide the mistakes...

Our dept is slowly phasing these out with Justice lightbars.. So keeping this one looking good till then.

 

[unityrv26]

Hi all.....reading some great things in this thread.

I have a question about finish polishing. I have two domes that are brand new.

A Fireball 2 red dome and a unity red Spitfire dome. The spitfire came new in the box and has minor scuffing just from the cardboard box. It's very fine. The fireball was NOS, and has some wear from being on a shelf, again looks new but it's just fine scuffing.

I want to make them look like they're supposed to being brand new. Would you guys wet sand them? Or skip to a polish?

Is plexus available or would any one recommend something else?

 

[kerry4951]

I would not wet sand domes that nice. I use Novus#3 first which is for heavier scratches, then follow up with Novus #2. Buff with clean terry cloth. If not scratched real bad I sometimes will skip the #3 and go right to #2. Ive had excellent results with the Novus products.

 

[chief1562]

chief15u62would suggest has Jr. Kerry said skip 3 and go to Novus 2 and see how it comes out. anymore than that PM me for more. Paul

 

[dmathieu]

I agree on the Novus 2 with excellent results. It is a rare day that I will use Novus 3 on beacon domes.

 

[BLUELIGHT]

For those domes and covers that have black rattle can paint on them, try applying plain brake fluid. In 24 hours, you can wipe most of the paint off. Repeat if necessary. Haven't had any issues with damage to Federal Signal plastic domes. Then you can decide if you want to wet sand or polish. I have not tried this on epoxy paint.